An unforgettable week on a boat: Day-by-day itinerary of a cruise from Zadar

Why choose yachting in Zadar and Northern Dalmatia?

Honestly? Because it's awesome there. And also because this area is like a playground for sailors. The islands are close together, so when Neptune decides to blow, you always have somewhere to hide. It's flexible. In the morning, you swim in the Caribbean (no kidding, wait for day 3), at noon you admire the breathtaking cliffs, and in the evening you sit in a tavern where they pour you wine that doesn't give you a headache. Well, most of the time.

Is the only thing missing bananas, the sea, and mojito happy hour? No, it's not. You can even find mojitos.

Before we dive into the waves, here are a few heartfelt tips.

• Paddleboard (SUP): Ask for one when you book your boat. Seriously. When you anchor in a bay and want to get ashore without launching the dinghy, you'll thank me.
• Cash: Cards are fine, but in the remote bays of Kornati, they'll only get you a smile, and that won't buy you any fish.
• Water: In the Kornati Islands and smaller islands, water is rarer than a sober sailor in the harbor. Use it sparingly.

And remember the old sailor's saying: "The captain plans, the weather changes." This itinerary is a plan, not a dogma.

Day 1: Saturday – Arrival and historical beauties of Zadar

Check-in. That moment when you pray that the boat has no hidden defects and that the crew won't drink all the beer supplies on the first day. Once you pick up the boat at the Zadar marina, unpack your things and head into town.

Zadar is "little Croatian Rome." I stand crouched like a beast, soaking up the atmosphere. Stone pavement, the smell of grilled fish, and history around every corner. What must you see? The sea organ. It's a staircase that the sea crashes into, playing melodies. Is it kitsch? Maybe. Is it beautiful? Definitely.

Right next to it is the Greeting to the Sun. A glass surface that glows. Alfred Hitchcock is said to have said that the sunset in Zadar is the most beautiful in the world. And who are we to contradict the master of horror?

• Route: 0 nm (just wander around the marina and the city)

Day 2: Sunday – Escape to the tranquility of the islands of Molat and Premuda

Most boats from Zadar head south. Not us. We are rebels. We sail north. This way, you avoid the boat highway and "captains" who confuse the rudder with a steering wheel.

The destination? The island of Molat or the more distant Premuda. Molat is a place where time has stood still. Jazi Bay has crystal clear water and the town has a library with thousands of books. What did I discover? That reading Hemingway on board a boat in a quiet bay is better than any therapy.

If you have divers in your crew, head on to Premuda. In Široka Bay, there is a cave called Katedrala. The light there plays such a spectacle that even the lighting technicians from the National Theater would be ashamed.

• Route: Zadar – Molat/Premuda (18–30 nm)
• Anchorage tip: Brgulje Bay on Molat (buoys) or Krijal on Premuda.

Day 3: Monday – The Croatian Caribbean in Sakarun Bay and snorkeling at the shipwreck

Today will be "Instagram-friendly." We're sailing to Sakarun. Sand, turquoise water, shallow waters. It looks like the Caribbean, except instead of rum, you drink Karlovačko. It's a must if you have children or wives on board who want a photo for social media.

But for us adventurers, there's something better. The wreck of the Michele near the island of Vele Lagne. An Italian merchant ship ran aground there in 1983. The wreck is just below the surface. Put on your fins, jump in, and feel like the discoverers of the Titanic. Just watch out for rusty pieces of iron so you don't tear your swimsuit (or, God forbid, your skin).

In the evening, anchor in the Veli Rat marina or at the buoy in Sakaruna. And take a look at the Veli Rat lighthouse. They say they mixed egg whites into the mortar to make it stick. We'll probably never know how many omelets they made for that.

• Route: Molat/Premuda – Sakarun/Veli Rat (approx. 18 nm)

Day 4: Tuesday – The majestic cliffs of Telaščica and the heart of Kornati

Get up early in the morning, before the cicadas wake up. We have a long journey ahead of us along Dugi Otok. Stop at Golubinka Cave and then head to Telaščica. The cliffs are massive. Standing on the boat, looking up, you feel as small as an ant.

Then we sail into Kornati National Park. A lunar landscape. Bare rocks, stone walls. It used to be green here, but the sheep ate it all. Literally. Now it is ruggedly beautiful.

Head to Vrulje Bay on the island of Kornat. There is a tavern called Ante. "What do my friends think I'm doing?" Lying on the beach. Reality? Stuffing myself with fresh fish and watching the local fisherman pull dinner for the next table out of the sea. Climb Pivcena Hill. The view will take your breath away more reliably than a blow with a paddle.

• Route: Sakarun – Kornat (Vrulje) (28–35 nm)
• Caution: Speed is limited to 8 knots in the national park. No racing!

Day 5: Wednesday – Cruise to the island of Žut or picturesque Pašman

Morning in Vrulja is medicine for the soul. Take a dip in the crystal clear water and then weigh anchor. You have two options. Either the island of Žut (the ACI marina is beautiful but devilishly expensive, so your wallet will cry) or Pašman.

Personally, I like Landin Bay on Pašman. There are buoys and two taverns. When you have dinner, the buoy is included in the price. That's a fair deal, isn't it? The bay is sheltered and calm. It's the perfect place to open a bottle of wine and ponder the immortality of the cockchafer.

• Route: Kornat – Žut/Pašman (12–24 nm)

Day 6: Thursday – The green island of Ugljan and ceramics on the island of Iž

We are slowly returning, but we are not done yet. From Pašman, turn towards Iž. On the way, you will pass Ugljan, known as the "green island." It is a nice contrast to the barren Kornati islands.

Traditional pottery was made on the island of Iž, specifically in Veli Iž. The town has an old-world atmosphere. The marina is small, cozy, and safe. If you want wilderness, anchor in Vodenjak Bay. It is peaceful there, with buoys and a guy who will bring grilled fish right to your boat. What more could you want?

• Route: Žut/Pašman – Iž (15 nm)

Day 7: Friday – Exploration of military bunkers and return to the marina

The last day at sea. It's sad, like when your ice cream falls into the sand. But we'll still enjoy it. We're sailing to the island of Dugi Otok, to Bokašin Bay near Dragove.

There is a military bunker for submarines here. You can enter it by boat (or even by ship, if you dare, but better not). It's like a scene from a James Bond movie. Cold concrete, echoes, Cold War history. A little chilling, but fascinating.

Then just a swim in the bay near Brbinje and return to Zadar. It will be chaos at the pump in Zadar, with boats wandering around like drunken ducks, so be on your guard.

• Route: Iž – Dragove – Zadar (27 nm)

Safety recommendations and risks in the Zadar region

Yachting in Zadar isn't just about sunbathing.

• Ždrelac Bridge: Connects Ugljan and Pašman. The clearance height is 16.5 meters. If your boat has a 17-meter mast and you try to go under it, you'll turn your sailboat into a convertible. Don't risk it.
• Shallow waters: There are plenty of them between the islands. Look at the map, not your cell phone.
• Wind: In summer, the mistral blows, which is nice. But the bora (north wind) can surprise you. When it starts blowing from Velebit, hold on to your hats.

How to enjoy your cruise to the fullest

This region is the perfect mix of everything. History, nature, food, and peace. Above all, don't stress. If you like a place, stay there longer. If it's too windy, don't go anywhere. You're on vacation, not in a race.

So, when are you leaving? The sea is calling, and the fish won't fry themselves!

See you at sea!