Itinerary - 7 days from Pula
Day 1: Arrival in Pula and tour of the Roman amphitheater
Saturday. A day of chaos, taking over the boat and shopping. Once you've sorted out the paperwork at Marina Polesana (new, clean, but a bit of a construction site) or the classic ACI Marina Veruda, head into town.
I stand crouched like a beast in front of the Pula amphitheater, which the locals call the Arena. It is the sixth largest amphitheater in the world, and honestly, the Romans knew what they were doing. It is better preserved than the one in Rome, which is certainly a bitter pill for Italians to swallow. Today, instead of gladiators, tourists roam here, and concerts are held in the evening. The atmosphere when the Arena is lit up is simply magical.
If it's too hot outside, hide underground. Pula has a network of Zerostrasse tunnels. It's cool and quiet there. When you get hungry, try Veritas Food&Wine or Bistro Alighieri. And don't forget a glass of Malvasia. Without it, you haven't been to Istria.
Day 2: From Pula to Vrsar and Poreč for history and swimming
On Sunday morning, we weigh anchor. Our destination? Vrsar or Poreč. They are like siblings – Poreč is the livelier one who goes to parties, while Vrsar is the quieter one who likes to watch the sunset from the hill.
On the way, stop at the Otočic Velika Sestrica islets. The water there is so clear that you can see to the bottom of your soul (or at least to the bottom of the sea). If you like the "wow" effect, sail into the Lim Channel (Limski kanal). It's like a Croatian fjord. Green hills fall directly into the blue water. Kitsch? Maybe. Beautiful? Definitely.
Vrsar has one advantage – it is on a hill. The view of the entire archipelago from the Church of St. Anthony is priceless. Poreč, on the other hand, attracts visitors with the Basilica of St. Euphrasius (UNESCO). The mosaics are so detailed that you wonder where people found the patience to do this without Netflix and smartphones.
In Poreč, visit Konoba Abe for truffles. It's an experience.
Day 3: Sailing north to Umag and sporting activities
Monday. We continue sailing north. A stop for swimming in Červar Porat is a must. Pine trees reaching down to the beach, cicadas chirping loudly, simply idyllic. If you have children on board (or adults who behave like children), stop at Uvala Lovrečica for a burger at Happy Food. The name doesn't lie, you'll be happy.
Umag is a tennis town. There are over 60 courts here. I may hold a racket like a pig holds a bone, but I enjoy the atmosphere of the town. The old center with its cobbled streets has its charm. You can anchor in ACI Marina Umag (note that you'll have to walk to the toilets, as it's quite large) or directly on the town waterfront. There you'll be in the center of the action, but be prepared for noise. What do my friends think I'm doing? That I'm sipping wine in the silence of the stars. Reality? I'm listening to the disco from the waterfront. But that's part of the vacation.
Day 4: A trip to Rovinj, the pearl of the Adriatic Sea
We turn south. Our destination is Rovinj. If there is a more photogenic town in Croatia, I have yet to see it. Colorful houses rise directly from the sea and climb the hill to the Church of St. Euphemia.
Stop in Novigrad on the way. This former fishing village has retained its tranquility. The bay at Karpinjan Beach is a great place for lunch and a swim. And then Rovinj. Get your legs ready, because there are a lot of steps to the church. But the view! 360 degrees of pure beauty. Terracotta roofs, turquoise sea... Does that mean that the beautiful girls we admire on the streets are huffing and puffing up the hill just like us? Yes, and it's worth it.
Rovinj is also a gastronomic paradise. The Monte restaurant has a Michelin star. If you don't want to spend your paycheck on dinner, try Mali raj in Trevisol alley.
If you're craving a little luxury, anchor at ACI Marina Rovinj - it's expensive but luxurious.
Day 5: Brijuni National Park and bike safari
This will be the highlight of the week. The Brijuni archipelago. The former summer residence of Yugoslav President Tito. And Tito loved animals. So here you will find a safari park with zebras, elephants (Lanka is a local celebrity), and alpacas. Is it bizarre? Yes. Is it great? Definitely.
Anchor in the port of Veli Brijuni. The price is steep and the services are basic (electricity may be far away), but the price includes admission to the national park. Rent bikes and ride around the island. You'll see Roman ruins, dinosaur tracks (they're really there!) and Tito's museum.
It's like traveling through time. One moment you're in ancient times, the next in the socialist era, and the next on the African savannah. The kids will be thrilled, and you'll have photos that no one will believe. "Where is my home?" Well, probably here among the zebras.
Day 6: Relaxation in the bays of Paltana and Burle near Medulin
After a day full of experiences on Brijuni, it's time to relax. We sail to Medulin. Burle Bay is well protected (except from the west wind). Medulin itself is not an architectural marvel, but it has its own atmosphere.
My secret tip? Uvala Paltana opposite Banjola. Calm waters, a good anchorage, and a few nice restaurants on shore. Take a boat to the small lagoon at the beginning of the bay. It's like the Caribbean, only without the pirates (if you don't count the prices in some restaurants).
Here, you can just lie on the deck, work on your tan, and wonder why you have to return to reality tomorrow.
Day 7: Return to Pula via Kamenjak Nature Park
The last day. Sadness in our hearts, but we still have one more treat in store. Kamenjak Nature Park on the southernmost tip of Istria. The coast here is wild and rocky, and the water is a color that even Instagram filters can't improve.
Stop at Uvala Portič Bay or Fenoliga Island. Jump into the water, swim to the caves (if you dare) and have one last drink at the legendary Safari Bar on the shore (if you can get there by boat). It's a place hidden in the reeds where you feel like Robinson Crusoe, if Robinson liked cold beer.
Then it's just a short sail back to Pula. Return the boat, check that you haven't broken anything, and wipe away a tear.
Day 8:
1.Day (Saturday): Marina Polesana or ACI Marina Veruda.
2.Day (Sunday): Pula - Vrsar/Poreč (22-26 nm)
3.Day (Monday): Poreč - Umag (16 nm)
4.Day (Tuesday): Umag - Novigrad - Rovinj (22 nm)
5.Day (Wednesday): Rovinj - Brijuni (14 nm)
6.Day (Thursday): Brijuni - Uvala Paltana or Uvala Burle (10 - 17 nm)
7. Day (Friday): Paltana/Burle - Pula (7 - 16 nm)
