Yachting Croatia: How to survive at sea, avoid the crowds, and find the best bays

Why is yachting so popular in Croatia?

It's simple. For us landlubbers, it's the closest salt water. We don't have to deal with complicated logistics, we just get in the car and in a few hours (unless the D1 is one big parking lot) we're there. What's more, the infrastructure there is tailor-made for yachtsmen. Marinas at every turn, restaurants where they understand you even if you speak "Czechoslovakian," and lots of islands that act as natural breakwaters.

When to go to the sea: A guide to the season from April to November

This is where the rubber meets the road. Most people think that the holiday season is the holy grail. Sure, the water is warm, you don't have to bring a hat, and all the pubs are open. But there's a catch. You have to sleep on deck because it's stifling down in the cabin, as if someone had locked you in a sauna and forgotten to turn off the heater.
The interior of the islands is parched. And privacy? Forget it. Every anchorage is full after lunch. You stand there crouched like a beast, waiting for a buoy to become available, only to find that it has just been taken by a German with a catamaran the size of an aircraft carrier.
Experienced sea dogs remember with a tear in their eye the days when you could anchor in the bays and not just moor to overpriced buoys. And you know what? It's still possible today. You just have to avoid being a "sheep" and change your dates.

Spring yachting in Croatia and nature awakening

April and May. This is when spring truly arrives at the seaside. Everything is blooming and fragrant, the grass is green (before the summer sun burns it), and pine pollen turns the sea yellow. The water is a refreshing 15ºC, so swimming is only for the hardy or those with wetsuits, but the peace and quiet!
In many bays, you can anchor for free because the buoys are pulled up for the winter. The harbors are empty. It's the ideal time for hiking trips inland without getting sunstroke.
And the weather? It tends to be windy. A few years ago, we set sail from Biograd in May for an event we proudly called "Expedition Palagruža." But on the very first day, the Jugo wind showed us who was boss, and we had to change our plans. We quickly renamed the expedition "Pulagruža" and enjoyed some fantastic sailing around Pula. What did I learn? That even if your original plan doesn't work out, the spring wind will make up for it.

Summer dates: What to prepare for during the peak season

June, July, August. Peak season. Prices skyrocket to astronomical heights and the purchasing power of your euro sinks faster than an anchor without a chain. Croatians are hungry for euros and you are happy to leave them there.
The water is unbearably warm (which is a plus for some, soup for others), the sun is scorching, and nature is parched. If you want a spot in the harbor or on a buoy, you have to reserve it. The app on your phone will become your best friend.
The weather is usually stable, but watch out for heat storms. In the afternoon, a cloud forms over the islands that looks innocent, but then it turns black and the storm begins. And August? That's when Italians have their company-wide vacation. The Adriatic Sea becomes crowded with boats from Italy, and the sea is as busy as a highway.
During the season, you should also expect that charter companies don't have much time for boat maintenance. So it may happen that something won't work. But what the heck, there's not much wind anyway, and the engine will always start (hopefully).

Autumn on a boat: Calm bays and warm seas

September and October. This is my secret tip. The sea is warm after summer, but the air is already pleasant. Nature turns green again after the first rains. Restaurants are still open, but waiters no longer look at you as if you are bothering them with your existence. There is no need to reserve buoys.
You can still swim in October, but it can get cold. There is nothing more beautiful than sailing above Zadar and looking at the snow-capped peaks of Velebit while you are in a T-shirt (and maybe a sweater). Just be careful, the days are shorter. Arriving at the anchorage after dark requires a bit of sailing experience.
And November? That's for loners. The sea is 18 ºC, there's no one around, and the restaurants are closed. It's just you and the sea.

The most beautiful routes and islands outside the main tourist destinations

If you don't want to join the masses and jostle through the streets of Dubrovnik or Hvar with crowds of tourists who look like they've just stepped off a cruise ship (which they often have), try something different.

Susak and Palagruža: Unique experiences for discerning sailors

And then there is Palagruža. This is for connoisseurs. It is far away, in the middle of nowhere. When you meet a boat there, they speak Czech or Polish. Anchoring there is a punishment – no bay, just open sea, large rocks, and depth. You have to be there first thing in the morning.

But what an experience! Take a boat to shore (carry it high so it doesn't float away!) and then up a steep path to the lighthouse. In the spring, you zigzag between the nests of seagulls, who scream at you as if you were stealing their lunch. Only the lighthouse keepers live at the top. If you dare to bring them a few cans of Pilsner beer as an "entrance fee," they might let you go up to the lighthouse light. For me personally, it's one of the TOP experiences. Does that mean that the beautiful girls we admire on the streets are no match for the view from the Palagruža lighthouse? Maybe.

Lastovo: An island with a rich history and naval bunkers

Lastovo was formerly a military island, closed to the public. Today, it is a national park (tickets can be purchased online; progress cannot be stopped). There are several naval bunkers for ships and submarines – sailing into them is like a scene from a James Bond movie.
There are 12 churches in the town, which shows that people used to pray a lot here (probably so that pirates wouldn't find them). Rent a car and drive up Hum Hill. And don't forget the artillery bunkers at Perma Bay. Take flashlights, lots of flashlights. The last soldier probably turned off the fuses when he left, so it's pitch black in there.

Sailboat Croatia or catamaran Croatia: Which boat to choose?

The eternal dilemma. Sailing in Croatia – that's a classic. You feel the wind, the boat tilts, you hang on the railing and feel like a real sailor. It's sportier, cheaper and easier to maneuver in the marina (mostly).
On the other hand, a catamaran in Croatia... is like a floating apartment. Two hulls mean stability. Your coffee won't spill, even when the wind is blowing at 20 knots. You have plenty of space, the kids can run around, and you feel like the king of the Adriatic. The downside? The price. And you pay for two spots in the marina. But if you're traveling with a group of friends who aren't used to the boat tilting and turn pale with every gust of wind, a catamaran is the obvious choice for maintaining good relations.

Anchoring options: From luxury marinas to romantic coves

You basically have five options for spending the night:

• Marina: Luxury, showers, electricity, water. And a hefty bill.
• City pier: Often without services, but you're right in the center of the action.
• Buoy: A compromise. You're in the bay, but safely moored. Of course, you'll pay for it during the season.
• Restaurant: "Free mooring," the sign says. But woe betide you if you don't have dinner there for the price of a small car.
• Anchor: Every sailor's dream. Free, freedom. But in season, good bays are so crowded that you have to arrive at two in the afternoon to get a spot. And you have to trust your anchor (and that the Italian next to you trusts his).

Navigation rules and mandatory documents for captains

COLREG applies at sea. This is not the name of a Croatian beer, but an international convention for preventing collisions. It also stands for "Good Maritime Practice." One of its rules says: take care of yourself and don't bother others unless your life is at stake. Unfortunately, today many people think that if they have a boat license (often obtained over a weekend), they are world champions.
What do you need? A passport (or ID card), a captain's license, and a radio operator's license. If you have a Croatian license, you don't need to worry about the radio, but with a Czech license, you do.

Safety at sea, insurance, and first aid basics

It's sad, but expect that there will be lots of people sailing around you who have no idea what they're doing. They don't know the rules of right of way, and captains are often fortified with rakija.
Therefore: insurance deposit. Don't even set sail without it. It's as if, a minute after setting sail, someone were hitting you over the head with a club, stressing you out that you might scratch the boat. With insurance, you can relax.
And first aid? There is no rapid rescue service at sea. If something happens, you're on your own. I recommend a first aid course (Red Cross or yachting companies). It's good to have a first aid kit on board, but it's better to know what to do with it.

What to do in case of an accident or emergency

When disaster strikes...

• Grounding: Try to free yourself. If this is not possible, or if the boat is taking on water, call the charter company.
• Collision: Take photos. Take photos of everything. And call the charter company.
• Injuries: Call 112.
• Sinking boat: Rescue people, call 112, and pray.

Above all, keep a cool head. Panic on a boat is worse than a hole in the hull.
So what? Are you packing your striped T-shirts yet? Croatia may be "overrated," but if you know where and when to go, it's still one of the most beautiful sailing areas in the world. In any case, writing this article has given me a welcome excuse to start planning my next voyage. See you at sea! Bye!