Elba - 7 days

Day 1: Marina di Scarlino as the ideal starting point

It all starts on land. Marina di Scarlino is like a luxurious antechamber to your adventure. I stand there on the pier, looking at the rows of catamarans, and think to myself, "This is going to be a wild ride."

The first day is classic. You pick up the boat, buy supplies in nearby Follonica (don't forget tons of water and wine, in that order), and then just hang out in the marina. If you're feeling restless, go for a swim in Cala di Postiglione Bay. In the evening, pop into one of the restaurants in the harbor. You can't go wrong, unless you order pizza with pineapple. That's punishable by expulsion in Italy.

Day 2: Trip to Portoferraio with a stop on the island of Palmaiola

Set off in the morning and you'll immediately understand what it's all about. Destination: Elba. But on the way, take a detour via the islet of Palmaiola. It's like a bite-sized treat in the middle of the sea. Stop, jump into the water, have lunch. The water here is so clear that you can see the fish swimming around your plate. Just watch out for the waves from the ferries; during the season, it rocks like a fairground.

In the afternoon, you'll sail into Portoferraio. And that, ladies and gentlemen, is "Mr. Harbor." Colorful houses clinging to the rocks, fortresses, history at every turn. "What do my friends think I'm doing?" Lying on the beach. The reality? I'm wandering the narrow streets of the old town looking for Napoleon's villa. The guy lived the high life here, even though he was in exile.

If you want to be in the center of the action, anchor in the city harbor. If you want peace and quiet and showers, try Esaom Cesa, but be prepared for a walk or bike ride.

Day 3: Sailing to the volcanic island of Capraia

Today will be a longer trip (about 26 nm), but it's worth it. Capraia is wild. A volcanic island that tourists have only recently discovered. It's raw, beautiful, and quiet there.

On the way, stop at Cala del Ceppo Bay. Put on your snorkel and look below the surface; it's like an aquarium. Capraia itself has only one village and one port. It's as if time has stopped there. No crowds, just a few yachtsmen and locals who are in no hurry. In the evening, enjoy some fish at one of the restaurants. It's so fresh that it was swimming just an hour ago.

Day 4: Marciana Marina and the view from the top of Monte Capanne

We return to Elba, this time to the northwest. Marciana Marina looks as if someone forgot it in the 19th century. And that's a good thing. Picturesque houses, villas in the hills, peace and quiet.

But beware, today we won't just be lazing around. "In any case, thanks to the project, I've got a welcome excuse," I say to myself as I board the bus to the Monte Capanne cable car. The cable car is an experience in itself – it's like a yellow canary cage that you jump into while it's moving. The view from the top? Amazing. You can see the whole of Elba, Corsica, and if you're lucky, even the mainland.

Have a drink at the top. The local specialty is said to be Frankovka (or rather Aleatico, but who would argue with legends), and in any case, it flows freely.

Day 5: Swimming in Fetovaia Bay and the shipwreck at Pomonte

We sail south. Here, it starts to resemble those catalog photos. Fetovaia is a beautiful bay with white sand. It's a bit crowded, but the water... the water is so blue that it looks like Photoshop.

For the more adventurous, there is Pomonte. A short distance from the shore, just a few meters deep, lies the wreck of the Elviscot. It's like a scene from Titanic, but smaller and without Leonardo DiCaprio. You can see it from the surface, so grab your snorkel and get going.

You can stay overnight in Fetovaia (if the sirocco isn't blowing) or drive to Marina di Campo.

Day 6: Historical charm and ice cream in Porto Azzurro

We are nearing the end, but the best is yet to come. Porto Azzurro. Even the name sounds sweet. And it is. The town is full of ice cream parlors. Does that mean that the beautiful girls we admire on the streets make a living just from ice cream? Maybe.

Piazza Matteotti is one of the most beautiful squares in Italy. In the evening, it comes alive, children run around, adults sip Aperol, and you wonder why the hell you have to live somewhere where it's cold for half the year. You can anchor in the marina (reservations required, it's crowded) or in Cala di Mola Bay.

Day 7: The last bays and return to the home port

The last day is always a little sad. Like when you eat the last slice of pizza. In the morning, take a walk along the Passeggiata Carmignani trail to Barbarossa Beach. It takes about half an hour, but the views will clear your head before you return to reality.

On the way back to Scarlino, stop at Cala Barbiere for one last swim. Then just return the boat, wipe away a tear, and promise yourself that you'll be back again next year.

• Day 1 (Saturday): Marina di Scarlino (0 nm)
• Day 2 (Sunday): Marina di Scarlino - Palmaiola - Elba/Portoferraio (22 nm)
• Day 3 (Monday): Elba/Portoferraio - ostrov Capraia (26 nm) 
• Day 4 (Tuesday):  Capraia - Marina Marciana (22 nm)
• Day 5 (Wednesday): Marina Marciana - Fetovaia nebo Marina di Compo (15 - 18 nm)
• Day 6 (Thursday): Fetovaia nebo Marina di Compo - Porto Azzurro (17 nm)
• Day 7 (Friday):  Elba/Porto Azzuro - Marina di Scarlino (18 nm)